Winemaking Philosophy: Innovation, Tenacity, Place, and Purpose
A Conversation with Devyani Gupta, the Head Winemaker & Viticulturist at Valdemar Estates
Devyani Gupta, Head Winemaker & Viticulturist at Valdemar Estates Photo by Kim Fetrow
The Valdemar Family has been making wine in La Rioja, Spain for five generations. In 2019, Jesús Martínez Bujanda Mora, the fifth-generation owner and CEO, opened Valdemar Estates in Walla Walla, Washington. We’ve been offering wines from both locations ever since. That makes us special in the Walla Walla Valley – we’re the first internationally-owned and operated winery to open in Washington State.
We’re often asked why we don’t bottle Spanish varietals at Valdemar Estates. To put it simply, our aim is to make exceptional wine that reflects the best of Washington. La Rioja, Spain is known for producing exquisite Tempranillo, and Walla Walla is known for producing beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay; therefore, our portfolio of wines seeks to highlight those grapes.
I recently sat down with newly promoted Winemaker and Viticulturist, Devyani Gupta, to ask her about her winemaking philosophy. Devyani has been with Valdemar Estates since 2019 and has had a significant influence on the wines we produce. For example, one of our most coveted wines of 2019, the Seven Hills Malbec, owes its 95% single-varietal bottling to her persistence and persuasiveness.
Tell me a little bit about your background and how that influences your winemaking?
“As a winemaker, I have a wide range of experience working with very different styles of wine, from delicate Riesling to funky and savory Rocks Syrah; or bright and fruit-driven Willamette Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, to intensely textured Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. I also worked with a vineyard management company as a viticulturist and crew foreman here in Walla Walla.”
“With climate change threatening the livelihood and sustainability of our industry, we quite literally went to new heights - planting above the elevation bounds of the recognized Walla Walla Valley AVA at the time”
Devyani Gupta at our North Fork Vineyard site before planting.
“With this experience I have learned to listen closely to the needs of our wines – and to support site-expression at each step of the winemaking process. For example - I do not expect my foothills cabernet to be plush and pliable; instead, I celebrate its tenacity and powerful mouthfeel. Similarly, as much as I love a specific barrel cooperage or toast, I hold back on New Oak for our Gamache Chardonnay, as it is a more delicate site with fresh minerality. Each lot is given individual treatment and attention.”
Devyani Gupta
Takes over the winemaking at Valdemar Estates in Walla Walla, Washington.
How is Valdemar Estates making good on the Valdemar Family’s legacy of innovation in the wine industry?
“With climate change threatening the livelihood and sustainability of our industry, we quite literally went to new heights - planting above the elevation bounds of the recognized Walla Walla Valley AVA at the time - and took a new angle on things in our property in the Rocks, orienting our rows East-West instead of the conventional North-South.
Jesús says often that the Valdemar Family has been making wines for 5 generations and intends to make wine for at least 5 generations more. Our Estate Vineyards mark our commitment to being pioneers in Washington Viticulture.
While our portfolio centers around Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay, the Valdemar Family’s pioneering spirit still rings true. We aren’t afraid to try new things, and we work closely with our grape growers to achieve mutual goals of excellence.”
What else would you like people to know?
“My winemaking philosophy is very complimentary with the vision of the Valdemar Family. Our wines are intended to have a certain freshness and vibrancy; after all, the Valdemar Family has old-world heritage. However, we also wish to celebrate Washington Wine’s history and viticulture. And so, our portfolio seeks to highlight vineyards with histories of excellence and pioneering spirit.”